Chateaubriand with Bearnaise Sauce

Excerpted from the STEAK LOVER'S COOKBOOK© by William Rice, Copyright 1997. Reprinted by permission of Workman Press.

This steak, cut from the thickest part of the tenderloin, merits a very special occasion. It is served with bearnaise, to me the most lavishly sensual of all steak sauces. While this recipe is meant, in spirit, to be served to two hungry persons in the full thrall of love, there is, in fact, enough meat to feed three. The sauce can be prepared ahead and rewarmed over-but not touching-simmering water. The wine should definitely come from Bordeaux and be as old and as experience as possible. Refrigerate any leftover bearnaise and, as my wife advises, "just let it melt on things."

1 center-cut beef tenderloin (about 1¼ pounds), cut 1½ to 2 inches thick
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, preferably corn oil
Salt

Béarnaise Sauce
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar, preferably tarragon flavored
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves
1 tablespoon minced shallots (optional)
White pepper, to taste
2 egg yolks (see Note)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Salt, to taste
2 or 3 drops hot pepper sauce, preferably Tabasco Jalapeno Sauce
1 cup melted unsalted butter, hot

• At least 45 minutes before cooking, remove the steak from the refrigerator, and let it come to room temperature. Pat it dry, coat lightly with vegetable oil, and set aside.
• Preheat the oven to 450° F.
• Heat a large ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-heat. Sear the tenderloin until browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn, season with salt, and sear the second side for 3 minutes more. Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the steak about 12 minutes for mediumÐrare and 14 minutes for medium. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let it rest for 4 to 5 minutes before carving.
• While the steak is resting, prepare the bearnaise sauce. Combine the white wine, vinegar, ½ tablespoon of the tarragon, shallots, if using, and a pinch of white pepper in a very small saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce until only 2 teaspoons of liquid are left, about 2 minutes. Set aside.
• Put the egg yolks, lemon juice, a pinch of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and the hot pepper sauce into a blender jar. Have the hot butter close at hand. Cover the jar, turn the blender on to medium-low speed, and pour the butter in through the feed hole in a thin but steady stream. When the sauce has thickened, add the wine reduction and the remaining ½ tablespoon tarragon. Blend briefy, taste, and adjust seasoning as desired. To keep the sauce warm while carving the meat, set the jar in a pan filled with 3 to 4 inches of hot water.
• Carve the steak into &frac;-inch-thick slices. Arrange the steak slices on plates. Lightly coat the meat with bearnaise and pass the remainder in a sauce boat .

SERVES 2 OR 3

NOTE: The eggs in the bearnaise sauce do not get fully cooked by the heat of the other ingredients. Be sure to buy only farm-fresh, best-quality eggs before preparing a dish in which they aren't cooked through.